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Excerpt from section 3 of the exhibition
DIAMOND IS FOREVER
THE 17TH CENTURY - DID YOU KNOW?
Around 1600, gems assumed greater importance than their settings, and the role of metal was reduced to that of a framework. A major change that coincided with peak production of diamonds in India.
Enamel disappeared from the front of jewels and was used only on their backs.
The classical elements favoured during the Renaissance were replaced by naturalism with its sprays of flowers, ribbons tied into flowing knots, and simplified forms (lozanges, ovals, circles).
Closely set in lines and clusters, rose-cut diamonds were seen in combination with the aging point and table cuts.
The first brilliant cuts appeared, further enhancing the feature role of diamond in jewellery.
Silver began to be substituted for the traditional gold settings to avoid yellow reflections cast over diamond’s brilliance.
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Round case pendant
Gold, diamonds, enamel
Mid-17th century
The Netherlands
On loan from St. Willibrordus Church, Antwerp, Belgium
Jewel set with 23 high-quality rose-cut diamonds, with a larger stone in
the centre surrounded by three girdles of seven stones. The rose at the
top conceals the eyelet. It was given by the wife of Bartholomeus
Tollinckx to St. Willibrordus Church. Note the silver plate bearing the
inscription "April 8, 1677," which served as a connecting piece to Mary's
crown, upon which the jewel was mounted.
(Reverse of this jewel ) |
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